Posts Tagged ‘backpacking’

South East Asia Day 1 Flight from Utah to Vietnam

Like most travel days I have, I began the day by sleeping very little the night before. I drank a fair amount of coffee while packing and re-packing my bags to ensure that I had everything, which I knew I didn’t, I never do. It was around 10 am that I realized I had not actually sent off my taxes and so, like any reasonable person, I sat down at the most inopportune time to do them. Somehow I managed to  get them done, though this of course lead to my forgetting something that I would want. In either case, my Mother was panicking that we would be late for the flight. It seems that planning excessive time before a flight and still panicking  about being late is genetic. So we grabbed our bags and piled into the car. My step-father dropped us of at the terminal and we said our goodbyes before making out way through security. We were of course quite early for our flight and so grabbed some food. During this time we discovered that my mothers go-pro, which we thought had been lost, was found along with a lunch that had been packed for me and that I had forgotten to grab but very much wanted. So, my Step-father agreed to drive all the way back to the airport to deliver these things to us. I left my things with my mother and met up with him. By the time we had done this, paid for our over priced food, and began making our way the gate we realized that they were already in final boarding so we ran the rest of the way to the gate and slipped in just before they closed the cabin door. The flight had a layover in San Francisco that was much longer than desirable but was otherwise uneventful.

We made the connection and boarded in the early hour of the morning for our next transfer almost 12 hours later in Taipei, Taiwan. There we were supposed to meet up with a friend who was joining us for the trip, James. Do to some worried about the need for a visa into Vietnam he was unsure if he was going to be stuck in Taiwan or be able to meet us in Ho Chi Mihn City.  While anxious about my friend we boarded our last plan on the way to Vietnam and e few short hours later arrived in Ho Chi Mihn City, Vietnam. We were whole heartedly unprepared for the heat that was waiting for us outside of the air conditioned plane. We collected our bags and flagged down a taxi to take us to the hostel we had booked online via HostelWorld.com.

When we arrived we found James there enjoying a beer in the lobby. He had apparently been able to get the visa sorted out. For those flying into Vietnam, I would recommend that you get a visa in advance.  We left our things in the room of “Hotel Luan Vu”, which was very nice. We then talked for a bit with the girl at the front desk. She was a very sweet girl and quite funny. We joined James for some beers in the lobby and a little and then my cousin, Sara, arrived. She had been in another part of Vietnam for a few days and had taken the train to meet us. We headed off and walked around town eventually we came across the market, It was a labyrinth of items, some of which I later regretted not buying. You could find almost anything you wanted within the tightly packed and rather foul smelling corridors of the shopping area. Many shops had the same things but with some interesting variety from cloths to sea cucumbers. Along our walk I was amused by some of the notable differences between the States and Vietnam. The was people moved among each other seemed more chaotic and yet organized then in the states. In the park there were some free exercises machines, which I’m still not sure if they actually did anything that would be particularly effective for those using them. My initial impression of the country was a positive one. So we concluded our first day on a long and exciting adventure.

Days 26 and 27 Waterfall Showers and Break Downs

I woke early to the sound of cars passing by on the road. the mountains seemed alive as the sun rose in the sky. A new day with new adventures had begun. We continued on our way to David where we would run some errands and look for a well priced camera then off to Panama. While driving down the road we spotted a waterfall that we could shower in. So we pulled off the side of the road and began exploring the area. We walked down a water drainage pipe that opened up to a cliff where you could see down a valley in the cloud forest.

The water we washed in was cold but fresh and clean. Showers are a luxury I had often taken for granted. While we showered a cloud moved in all around us, limiting visibility slightly and creating a mystic atmosphere. It was then that a light drizzle began and we finished showering in the waterfall in the rain. When we were cleaned up, we ate some lunch and headed the rest of the way into town. There the first store we found had the camera we were looking for and cheaper than we thought, which was incredibly lucky. With those ready and the afternoon burning along we tried to leave town.

I say tried to leave because by the time we reached a few miles out of town the fuel stopped cycling and wiggles broke down. We managed to get back into town and find a mechanic. However, it was Sunday and everyone was closed. Luckily we were told we could stay at the shop till morning. Beyond that we had to try and clean up the mildew smell from where wiggles had leaked in the rainstorm. Over all it was hard to sleep that night.

When the sun rose we went to work doing various jobs. I charged tech and did online updates. Thad worked on media while Angela worked tirelessly to communicate with the mechanics to fix wiggles; everyone helped wash and dry things. The whole day was spent leaching of McDonald’s wifi and working on the van. With little progress we hoped that the problem would be fixed in enough time to get me to Panama city for my flight.

Day 25 Tropical Islands and Snorkeling in the Coral

We woke up to the sound of commuters piling into the ferry headed to the island of Bocas del Toro. We decided that based on the quickness and identical price of the ferry to water taxis, the water taxi was the way to go. So while headed to the other section of the dock we meet up with a guy who gets paid to direct people to his company. He led us to our water taxi, soon and 4 dollars later, we were zipping across the slightly choppy water. The surroundings were beautiful. There were small islands made up of trees growing from the water and boats of all kinds drifting along. The fresh air caressed my face as we weaved in and out of islands and boats at 50 MPH.

We reached Bocas del Toro after about 20 min and the island had an instant calming effect.  The people and environment were both laid back. The town was full of little shops and restaurant. We found a guide to take us snorkeling and dolphin watching along the main road. Once the little boat had picked everyone up we were off to see the dolphins.

Though we were not allowed to get in the water we watched for some time as the dolphins played and swam. This area is a main mating spot for dolphins and we were in the right season. They jumped through the air and preformed other acrobatics in the hopes of impressing possible mates. Soon we moved on to a little hut village that was resting on stilts over the water to eat and get ready for snorkeling over the reef.

Only some of the people on our tour wanted to snorkel so some were left at the village while we geared up and jumped in the cool water. Coral there was quiet diverse and we were warned to avoid an area where there was poisonous and stinging coral. As i swam around I noted that the colors were amazing. The blues, greens and reds all twined together and moving in unison. Even with the slightly less ideal waters of the rainy season, the colors were vibrant and housed equally vibrant fish. The fish were ranging from small striped ones to large rainbow colored ones. They were not particularly shy and when about they day as if I, a large foreign monster, was not looming over them with gigantic plastic eyes.

Unfortunately the currents were strong and as I swam about I would find myself drug around. I consider myself a rather decent swimmer and yet holding my ground was almost impossible.  I quickly found myself among the less desirable, itchy coral and suffered their wrath on my stomach and arms. The tour guide called everyone in and insisted we go back. The waters were too rough and the conditions were too dangerous to continue. Though Thad, Angela, and I were disappointed there was no discussing the terms. So we rested the remainder of the time in hammocks in the waterfront village.

When we arrived at port again we ate some dinner and headed back on the last water taxi of the day. While I have a difficult time handling the crowded on public transit, it provides an opportunity to watch the wide verity of people who are also migrating. They range from young teens gossiping to older workers and tourists. It makes for an interesting ride. By the time we got to wiggles, it was almost dark. After some confusion we found our way out of town and on the hunt for a place to park, which we found on the side of the road along the mountain pass.

Day 24 Car Surfing in the Rain, Boarders, and Dark Port Towns

We decided over breakfast that we would pack up and head for the boarder, assuming that is that we could manage to get out of the mud we were in. The whole night it had poured and was continuing to pour. The rainy season was moving up to its name. The ground was now muddy and each hole had become a minor lake. We attempted to dry up what we could but during the night the rain had dripped inside a little.

After we managed to get unstuck and made our way down the road, Angela and I decided we wanted to ride in the rain. We climbed up on wiggles in our bathing suits and held on tight. The rain fell hard but not too cold. We laughed and joked as we lumbered down the dirt road, waving at locals as we went. The moments I was on top of the van with a slight chill and the feeling of each drop hitting my exposed flesh, I felt alive. Eventually we reached the main road and had to get back in the vehicle. However, for that stretch of dirt I felt fresh and free of all stress.

From the reserve, it was a short drive to the boarder of Panama. We strapped on our rain coats and panchos and stared waiting in line. While Thad and Angela handled wiggles’ I held our spot in line. I watched the people shuffling past as though I didn’t exist as they went about their business. The group of students on their summer trip joked and laughed loudly in front of me while several backpackers and a very proud and well maintained woman stood behind me. Leaning against the brick wall of one of the public buildings I watched two girls gossip with each other and the Panama military personal patrolling and randomly asking for ID from passer-byers. About an hour or so later, they came back to get their passports stamped before returning to the task of wiggles.

The car took more than expected to get across the boarder. While there was no exit fee when crossing a land boarder from Costa Rica to Panama there is a 3 dollar taxes charge for Panama. With all of those things combined we turned out we were 25 cents short and the officials were sick of our pennies and began refusing them. This left us with only be choice, see if anyone in wanted to exchange pennies for other change. Luckily, a fellow a few people behind us spoke beautiful English and was willing to help.

So with the skin of our teeth and still the shortest boarder crossing to date we entered Panama and were on our way. The day was still fairly young and so we ran some errands such as shopping and looking for a replacement camera for the one Thad and Angela had damaged. With shopping done and no luck on cameras we pushed on to the port town of Almirante. It was dark when we arrived and quite honestly the town was a little unsettling.

Everyone walked around on the street with little regard for cars. People would yell as you passed by for seemingly no reason at all. When we realized we were a little lost we asked directions from a police officer, who guided us to the dock where the fairies were. Given that it was now quite dark and not feeling safe sleeping in the town, we asked if we could just sleep by the boat, which we were assured was a safe place.

After prepping wiggles and dealing with light night rain showers we settled into bed. I had a hard time falling asleep with the sounds of dock workers moving and preparing ships for the morning hall. Eventually I drifted off to a light and rather unsatisfying sleep.

Day 23 Protecting Turtles and Long Drives

When I woke it was still raining. The green of the foliage was intense in the morning light. My friends were still sleeping and I laid there for a while watching the rain slide down the window backed by rich green, listening to the drops hit the van. Despite the leek on one side, I had nothing to panic about, nothing to do other than breath and listen.

We started breakfast before pulling back on to the main road. Still in Costa Rica we were close to the border but wanted to see some beaches along the coast. We reached the first of some beaches we had been recommended while in Monteverdi. The little tourist town that occupied the beach was more interesting than the beach its self and so we decided to move along. We stopped to ask after a place to eat and what we could do in the area at tourist booth on the main road. The women there recommended a good and well priced lunch place. She had come from Spain and was working and living here now. After some talk she told us about a turtle reserve we could volunteer at. She had done some work there as well and told us how amazing it was.

We ate and moved south to the reserve. We drove past some amazing scenery while on our way even seeing monkeys and tucans in the wild. When we had reached the community by the turtle reserve we had to ask around for a guide that spoke English. Luckily one of the few people who spoke English was available. We paid him 20$ per person to be a guide and help pay for the supplies of the nonprofit organization that helps to protect the breading grounds of several types of turtles that use the beach as a hatching ground.

Braulio, our guide, explained the rules and and aims of the organization that he works for. We then dressed in dark colors, used our red head lights and began our rounds. The first round of the night runs from 8pm to 12am, which is the one we were assisting with. We were to walk along the beach and watch for birthing turtles. If any lay eggs than we were to help collect eggs that were played in dangerous spots while also keeping an eye put for egg poachers.

All that night we walked the length of the beach several times and spoke with Braulio about his life and work near the beach. Late that night a female leather back turtle found her way to the beach. We had hopped that she was ready but she wasn’t and returned to the sea. Just before our shift ended the local police did some rounds to check for poachers. That night we slept in wiggles and listened to the rain as it started to fall hard and fast in the early am hours.

Day 22 Goodbye to Good Friends, Hello to the Rain

David and Jeff left early in the morning. I stayed at the hotel while Angela and Thad dropped them off. I was sad to see them go. I had grown rather close to them and will miss them. The next morning was utilized to finish necessary processes and finish contacting people. By noon we were back on the road, our vacation from our vacation was over and there were things to jump off and places to explore.

We drove most of the day to make it to the other side of the country. The pacific side is currently in its rainy season. The farther south we went the greener the country got. We drove over large rolling hills covered in thick trees and plantations of fruit such as bananas. We stopped in a small town for lunch and took a small break. However, it gets dark fairly early and we wanted to reach the coast by sundown.

It was close but we found a little clearing just off of the road where we could see the waves and were nestled below thick foliage. It had been lightly raining on and off all but an hour or so after we parked, it poured. Even with the rain the air was hot and thick, which is a sensation I am still trying to be accustomed to. The rain remained unrelenting as we relaxed for the night and settled in to eat dinner. It continued in a down poor while I drifted off to sleep.

Days 19, 20, 21 Vacation From Our Vacation

We woke up relatively late but packed up quickly as we moved closer to San Jose. The drive was slightly less brutal than the previous day but the frequent toll booths made things a little more difficult. We ended up navigating down side roads to avoid more tolls. We eventually got to the airport city of Alajuela just outside San Jose where we tried to get a room at a locally run hotel. Everything looked good but once we had given the land lady our money she started stating rules that were not previously discussed and had also asked for a higher price than was listed. So rather than deal with the constraints we asked for our money back and moved to another hotel.

Even though the price was higher because of availability, it was worth it for the air conditioning alone. We spent the next several days catching up on pictures and contact things. Angela and I relaxed and worked out, we all swam in the pool, and we even got to see a small tropical rainstorm. The days at the hotel were a nice vacation from our vacation.

We spend the end of the last day getting ready to pack up and getting ready to say goodbye for now to Dave and Jeff. We had all gotten close and time seemed to move too quickly.

Day 18 Cold Rootbeer and Fireworks Over the Port City of Herradura

We began moving north again so that we could have plenty of time to get to San Jose for Dave and Jeff’s flight. We drove all day in the glaring sun. Our only reprieve was a short break to get rootbeer, which is basically non-existent here. Everyone was over heated and a bit tense. We finally decided on a spot along the beach next to the port in a town called Herradura. We meet a very nice man there who lives in Canada but travels to his home country, Costa Rica, frequently. We spoke to him for some time before he and his relatives left.

We took most of the rest of the day easy, we cooked, and I read in my hammock till it was time to sleep. When it started getting dark we could hear the club music from down the beach. When the sun had fully set we were treated to a firework show that was down the shoreline a bit. I settled in and watched the lights from the boats in the harbor on the water with the sound of waves ushering me to sleep.

Day 17 Sliding Down 30ft Waterfalls and Night Time Runs

We woke and lazed about our camping spot eating breakfast and cleaning wiggles. Eventually we got moving, picked up camp and headed to the waterfall we didn’t get to yesterday. It cost one us dollar or 500 collones to go in. The water was cool and refreshing. We were traveling through, as we were told, one of the hottest weeks of the year in that region. We all jumped in and soon discovered that we could slide down the ~30ft waterfall. I wasted no time climbing the rocks to reach the top (though it turns out there was a much easier trail). I was a little nervous, he its always look bigger when looking down instead of up. I sat down and pushed forward. I knew the were no rocks below as we had scouted it out first but was not sure if I would catch rocks on the way down. The slide was smooth and I sqweeled as I was launched free from the rocks and into the water. It was a blast and soon everyone in our party was up and down the waterfall. We even made some new friends who joined us down the waterfall slide.

On the drive back to the Playa we stopped by a bamboo forest on the side of the road. We took some pictures and wondered around for a bit before surrendering to the bugs and fleeing with our skins mostly intact.

We set up camp on the beach again and even though the bioluminescent bacteria were not as bright as the first night we swam among the stars again. Thad, Angela, and I held a spontaneous beach marathon in the star light down the dark beach as the others tended to their beach fire. I slept well that night exhausted and happy.

Day 16 Swimming in a Sea of Stars with Bioluminescent Bacteria

In the morning we played in the warm ocean water. I walked the town and enjoyed the beach market where I bought a few things. Just before everyone packed up to check out a waterfall we had been sent to Dave and I mailed some post cards and finished some other errands.

The waterfall was more of a swimming hole with water streaming into it but very lovely all the same. It was free and a rope swing hung from a large tree. While everyone swam I read my book and enjoyed the acrobatic show from a young boy who performed rope swing jumps that impressed everyone. He would take s giant swing and do double flips before landing perfectly in the water. I was seriously impressed as he free climbed up the tree to a large branch and launched himself from it to the water 20-30 ft below. We moved to the next waterfall but decided given the hour it would be best to wait till the following day. The gentleman that worked there directed us to a free place to camp on Playa Uvita, where you usually had to pay and couldn’t park.

Here I had one of the greatest life changing experiences I have ever had. The night began with us learning how to un-husk fresh coconut and watching an impressive sunset. The real show started when I was totally dark. At first we thought the brightness of the waves was a reflection from the moon till one of us pointed out that there wan no moon in the sky.

The ocean was lighting up on its own. As it turns out, we were in town for a migration of Bioluminescent bacteria in the water. As the waves crashed they glowed a bright neon green. We ran to the water and swam in what seemed like a sea of starts. Each movement made the same light up. Coning up out of the water left you covered in natural sparkles. Even as I swam about in the water I could hardly believe what I was seeing. The tide came and went bringing the water to life.

Even the sand was full of the little lives and as you ran the really bright bacteria would illuminate. It was like skipping a cross a galaxy in the matter of steps. We swam and laughed and ran along the shoreline for hours. Even as I fell asleep I watched the waves light up so bright they reflected on the water around them. I went to bed more content than I had in a while. The green glow comforted me and diminished my homesickness as I drifted to sleep under the palm trees and above the soft sand.

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